Designer: Stephanie Hahn
Place of origin: Dusseldorf, Germany
S / S 2016 HOMMES COLLECTION
The Spring / Summer 2016 collection follows the extravagant, luxuriant style of a modern day Dorian Gray juxtaposed by abstraction and luminous concepts from Dada artist and sculptor Hans Arp. Creative director and designer Stephanie Hahn divides the surface of her order offering contrasting shapes constructed with texture in relevant colors. In her designs, the long and the short, the light and the dark, the eternal and the ephemeral are balanced to reach equilibrium.
New this season is the gentleman’s trench bottom over trousers, the one sided scalloped lapel evening jacket with pearl detailing. Referencing Arp with circles and rectangles in 3D collages on shirts, slip on shirts with hoodie-strings which are also found horizontally and perpendicularly on tailored sport coats, waistcoats and jackets. The colors range from beige to deep navy to midnight blue and the plum and navy stripe used in the Dorian Gray trench coat and Kimono t-shirt with hoodie-string.
“The exclusive use of fine Italian fabrics tailored and constructed to look extremely minimal exerted a decisive influence on my work this season,” said Stephanie Hahn.
Hahn keeps a symbiosis between tailoring aspects and sporty details on jackets, trousers and shirts. In contrast, this was broken up by detachable details such as collars on trench coats, belt-loops, cuffs on shirts and other significant, but barely visible details that have to be discovered by the wearer with a depersonalized simplicity on the outside such as the functional back-strap inside the blazers and trench coats. “I like to take things out of classical tailoring such as the exposed sleeve head on a long waistcoat,” Hahn explained about the signature details and pocket details found on the workman’s waistcoat and trousers.
Continued this season are the 22/4 patches and the tuxedo stripe navy trousers and shorts. Fabrics used for the season are tropical wool, cotton and permanent crinkled wool.